GiveMeLeverage
& I will remove the world
OMG mancavano solo le onde.
Di onde in estate bisognerebbe parlarne in un solo contesto, temo non sia questo.
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Introduction to Physical Oceanography : Chapter 16 - Ocean Waves - Waves and the Concept of a Wave Spectrum
Chapter 16 - Ocean Waves
16.3 Waves and the Concept of a Wave Spectrum
If we look out to sea, we notice that waves on the sea surface are not simple sinusoids. The surface appears to be composed of random waves of various lengths and periods. How can we describe this surface? The simple answer is, Not very easily. We can however, with some simplifications, come close to describing the surface. The simplifications lead to the concept of the spectrum of ocean waves. The spectrum gives the distribution of wave energy among different wave frequencies of wave-lengths on the sea surface.
The concept of a spectrum is based on work by Joseph Fourier (1768 - 1830), who showed that almost any function ζ (t) (or ζ (x) if you like), can be represented over the interval -T/2 < t < T/2 as the sum of an infinite series of sine and cosine functions with harmonic wave frequencies:

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